Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.